Realme GT Master Explorer Edition Disassembly Teardown Repair Video Review
If you want to see more videos like this make sure you subscribe and follow me on twitter, so youll be notified. When i upload a new video and if you need any tools, there are links in the description. Music first, the sentry needs to be removed. Next, we need to apply heat to the back plate using a hair, dryer or a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive underneath and then were going to use our plastic pry tool to pry the back plate off heres. A better look at the glass back plate, the glass camera lens covers, can be replaced by applying heat and gently prying them off. On the other side, theres some graphite film on the top and bottom to help transfer heat. There are also three phillips screws which are holding down the metal bracket for the camera lens covers. There are 17 phillips screws that need to be removed. Now the top plastic cover can be removed on this plastic cover theres a dual led flash on this flex, cable. As well as a light sensor on the bottom, then fc antenna is located in the center theres, another antenna, flex, cable on the right side and theres graphene film, which helps transfer heat heres. A look at the other side. Once we have access to the battery cable were going to disconnect it first once the battery cable is disconnected, we can proceed to disconnect the rest of the cables. There are two coaxial cables on the right side of the board, which need to be disconnected by popping them off theres some copper tape covering the connector for the facing camera, which needs to be peeled off.
So we can disconnect it theres, a single phillips screw holding down the main board that needs to be removed. Now the main board can be lifted up and removed. Theres a two megapixel macro lens, a 50 megapixel primary lens and the 16 megapixel ultra wide lens. The camera connectors can be disconnected by just popping them off. The primary camera is the only one with ois on the top corner of the board: theres a secondary microphone theres, some more copper tip and graphene film on the shield and theres a rubber gasket around this connector and one around the battery connector. Once the copper tape is peeled back, we can see thermal pads on top of these chips. Heres a look with the thermal pads removed, theres, more copper tape on the back shields. Once the copper tape is peeled back, we see more thermal pads on these ships, as well as thermal paste on top of the processor and ram heres, a better look with the thermal pads removed and the thermal paste cleaned off now the bottom cover can be removed. There are four flex cables which need to be disconnected now. The speaker assembly can be lifted up and removed, but be careful since the white coaxial cable is still attached to the antenna board. Heres, a better look at the speaker and theres a mesh filter over the opening. The subwoofer can now be lifted up, but be careful since the other end of the quiescent cable is still attached.
Underneath heres a better look at the sub board. The primary microphone is located underneath the shield theres a liquid damage indicator, which is this white sticker, and there are rubber gaskets around these connectors. The sim reader is located on the back. The screen cable is located on the bottom right side of the board. So if you need to replace that, you would have to remove the back plate, remove the screws on the bottom, as well as remove the bottom cover, disconnect the flex cables and remove the speaker assembly and sub board, giving you access to the screen cable. At that point, you heat up the front of the phone where the screen is to loosen up the adhesive, underneath your pry will screen off, apply new adhesive and reapply your new screen making sure you run the cable back to the opening in the mid frame and Reassemble the phone in order to remove the battery there are pull tabs provided to help us pry the battery off heres, a better look at the two batteries which are connected together as one once the battery adhesive is pulled back. We have access to the flex cable for the charger port, as well as the flex cable, which connects the main board to the sub board. Theres a foam cushion on the bottom, which needs to be peeled off now. The flex cable for the charger port can be peeled off and the flex cable is right around the fingerprint reader heres a better look at the charger port and theres a red rubber gasket around it.
Once this flex, cable is peeled back. We can see the copper vapor chamber, which runs underneath the battery, as well as the motherboard and theres thermal paste on this side, which sits underneath the processor moving on the vibrator motor is located on the bottom and is held down with adhesive, as well as the Fingerprint reader, which is also held down with some adhesive theres, a rubber gasket, covering the opening for the power button, as well as the volume keys and the flex table for the power button and the volume keys are held on with some adhesive. So if you needed to replace those youd have to remove the rubber gaskets and gently peel off the flex cables, the proximity sensor is located on top, which is the small board, as well as the earpiece speaker for the repairability score. I give this phone a seven out of ten now its time to put the phone back together. Music, once everything is back in place, apply new adhesive and reapply your backplate flip over the phone power it on and youre done.